Pros and Cons of Tire Balancing
Tire balancing provides a smoother, safer ride for you and your vehicle. Learn about the pros and cons of tire balancing.
Read More October 27, 2015 | Blain's Farm & FleetThis guide walks you through everything you need to know, from picking the right oil to disposing of the old stuff safely. Here’s what you’ll walk away with:
Let’s get started.
Most modern vehicles need an oil change every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, depending on the oil type and your manufacturer’s recommendation. The old “every 3,000 miles” rule is outdated for the vast majority of cars and trucks on the road today.
Here’s why that changed. Engines are better built now, and oil chemistry has come a long way. Full synthetic oils resist breakdown far longer than the conventional oils common in decades past. Many newer vehicles also have built-in oil life monitors that tell you exactly when it’s time.
Your best source is always your owner’s manual. As a general guide:
Keep in mind that severe driving conditions, like short trips, towing, extreme heat, or dusty roads, can shorten these intervals. When in doubt, check your manual and follow your oil life monitor.
Your vehicle needs the specific oil grade and type listed in your owner’s manual or printed on the oil filler cap. Using the wrong grade can hurt performance and fuel economy.
You’ll usually see a code like 5W-30 or 0W-20. The first number and “W” (for winter) show how the oil flows in cold temperatures. The second number shows how it performs when the engine is hot. Match this exactly to your manufacturer’s spec.
Choosing the right oil type is a balance of cost, protection, and how often you want to do this job. Here’s a quick comparison:
If your manual calls for full synthetic, don’t downgrade. Many modern engines are designed specifically for it.
Yes. Changing your own oil is a beginner-friendly job that most people can complete in 60 minutes with basic tools. You don’t need to be a mechanic. You just need patience, the right supplies, and a safe place to work.
That said, if you’re short on time or don’t have the tools, a professional service center can handle it quickly. But if you enjoy hands-on projects, this is a rewarding skill worth learning.
Gather everything before you start so you’re not stuck mid-job. Here’s what you’ll need:
Having quality, durable tools on hand makes this job faster and safer every time you do it.
Before you slide under your vehicle, take these precautions seriously:
Now you’re ready to get to work.
Time needed: 45 minutes
Start your engine and let it run for a few minutes. This warms the oil so it drains faster and more completely. Then drive onto your ramps or lift the vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands.
Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Turn the engine off before moving on. Don’t skip this prep, it keeps you safe and makes the whole job easier.
Lay out your tools within easy reach. Put on your gloves and slide underneath the vehicle to locate the drain plug on the bottom of the engine’s oil pan.
Position your drain pan directly beneath the plug. Using a wrench, unscrew the plug counterclockwise and let the oil drain fully. Keep your hands clear, the oil may still be hot.
While it drains, inspect the plug. Wipe away dirt and debris. If you see cracks or worn threads, replace it. Once the oil stops draining, reinstall the plug and tighten it snugly. Do not over-tighten, as this can strip the threads and cause leaks.
The oil filter is usually near the oil pan, often on the front side of the engine. Slide your drain pan under it, then use your oil filter wrench to turn the filter counterclockwise.
Expect some oil to leak out as it loosens. Check the bottom of the old filter for its rubber gasket. If the gasket isn’t there, check the mounting surface, it may have stuck. Remove and discard it, then let the old filter drain fully.
Dip your finger in fresh oil and rub a thin coat onto the new filter’s rubber gasket. This creates a proper seal and makes future removal easier.
Screw the new filter on by hand until it’s snug, then give it a slight extra turn. Hand-tighten only. Using a wrench here can over-tighten the filter, causing leaks and making it nearly impossible to remove next time.
Check your owner’s manual or the oil filler cap for the correct grade and capacity. Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (usually labeled “engine oil”).
Place your funnel in the opening and pour in the fresh oil. Add slightly less than the full capacity at first, you’ll top off after checking the level. Wipe the cap clean, inspect it for wear, and replace it.
Carefully lower the vehicle back to the ground. Remove the wheel chocks once it’s stable and back on level ground.
Start the engine and let it run for a minute or two, then shut it off and wait a moment for the oil to settle. Pull the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert it fully, then pull it again.
Hold the dipstick horizontally and read the level. It should sit between the “add” and “full” marks. If it’s low, add small amounts and recheck until it reads in the correct range. Don’t overfill.
Wipe down your tools and clean any spills with oil absorbent. Never pour used oil down a drain or onto the ground, it’s harmful to the environment and often illegal.
Pour the used oil into a sealed container and take it, along with the old filter, to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts them. Many locations take used oil for free.
Tip: Check your oil level regularly, roughly once a week or at every fuel stop, to catch leaks or low levels early.
Even simple jobs have pitfalls. Watch out for these:
Avoid these and your oil change will go smoothly every time.
A DIY oil change takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you have your tools ready and have done it a few times. Your first time may take a bit longer.
Yes. Replacing the filter with every oil change is standard practice and ensures your fresh oil stays clean.
Yes, in a pinch, mixing won’t harm your engine. But for best results, stick with one type that matches your manufacturer’s recommendation.
Old oil breaks down and loses its ability to protect your engine. Skipping changes leads to sludge buildup, overheating, and eventually expensive engine damage.
Changing your own oil is a simple, money-saving skill that keeps your car or truck running longer. The biggest update to remember: forget the old 3,000-mile rule and follow your manual, most vehicles now go 5,000 to 10,000+ miles between changes, especially with full synthetic oil.
Grab your tool checklist, pick the right oil for your vehicle, and set aside an afternoon this week to give it a try. If you’d rather leave it to the pros, or you’re missing a few tools, stop by an Automotive Service Center where trained technicians can take care of it for you.