Tips for Camping with Dogs
Camping with dogs can be fun for the whole family, but you'll need to prepare first. Follow these tips from Blain's Farm & Fleet.
Read More July 22, 2016 | Blain's Farm & FleetStoring a camper or RV for winter without proper preparation can lead to burst pipes, mold growth, damaged seals, and costly repairs come spring. Winterizing protects your investment and ensures your rig is ready to roll when the weather turns warm again. This guide covers everything you need to know, from draining your water system to protecting your tires, with practical advice for Midwest campers who deal with hard freezes, road salt, and long storage seasons.
Winterizing a camper or RV is the process of preparing the vehicle for cold-weather storage by protecting its water system, mechanical components, and exterior from freeze damage, moisture, and long-term wear. Water left in pipes, tanks, or water heaters will expand when it freezes, cracking lines and fittings. Seals and tires degrade when exposed to prolonged cold without protection. Batteries drain when left unmanaged. Winterizing addresses all of these risks before they become problems.
For Midwest campers in states like Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa, and Minnesota, this process is especially important. Hard freezes arrive early, temperatures swing dramatically in fall, and a camper left unprepared in November can sustain serious damage by March.
To winterize an RV or camper, drain and bypass the water heater, blow out all water lines with compressed air, add RV-specific antifreeze to the plumbing system, and close all drain valves. Beyond the water system, you should also disconnect or maintain the battery, cover the exterior, protect the tires from UV and cold, and seal any openings where pests might enter. The full process takes most campers two to four hours and requires basic tools, compressed air, and RV-safe antifreeze.
The core goal of winterization is to remove water from every part of the plumbing system where it could freeze and expand. Water expands roughly 9% when it freezes, and that pressure is enough to crack PVC pipes, copper fittings, and plastic connectors.
There are two primary methods:
The Compressed Air Method: A compressor blows pressurized air through each water line, forcing water out of the pipes, faucets, and fixtures. This method works well but may not remove every drop from low-lying sections of pipe.
The Antifreeze Method: RV-safe, non-toxic antifreeze (typically propylene glycol-based) is pumped through the water lines to displace remaining water. This is the most reliable method and is especially recommended for complex plumbing systems or cold climates where temperatures drop well below freezing.
The Combined Method: Many experienced RV owners blow out the lines first, then add antifreeze as a secondary measure. This is the most thorough approach for Midwest winters.
Every water-bearing component needs attention:
Skipping even one component, particularly the water heater or a low-point drain, can leave water sitting where it can freeze and cause damage.
Use only antifreeze specifically labeled for RV or marine use. RV antifreeze is typically propylene glycol-based and non-toxic, safe for use in potable water systems. Never use automotive antifreeze, which is ethylene glycol-based and poisonous if ingested from residual contact with your water system.
Key things to check on the label:
Most campers need two to three gallons for a standard trailer, though larger Class A motorhomes may require more.
For the blow-out method, you need an air compressor and an RV blow-out plug, which is an inexpensive adapter that connects your compressor to the city water inlet. Set your compressor to no more than 50 PSI for most RV plumbing systems. Exceeding this can damage fittings and fixtures.
| Method | Best For | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressed air only | Mild climates, simple plumbing | Fast, no chemical residue | May miss low-lying water pockets |
| Antifreeze only | Complex systems, first-time winterizers | Thorough, reliable | Takes more time, requires flush-out in spring |
| Combined method | Midwest winters, long storage periods | Most complete protection | Slightly more time and materials |
| Professional service | Those who prefer hands-off approach | Convenient, guaranteed | Costs more than DIY |
For most Midwest campers storing their RV from October through April, the combined method or antifreeze-only method offers the most reliable freeze protection.
Winterize before the first hard freeze in your area, which in much of the Midwest arrives between mid-October and mid-November. Do not wait for a freeze warning to act. Water sitting in pipes can freeze overnight during an early cold snap, even if the daytime temperature was mild. A good rule of thumb: if nighttime lows are regularly dipping below 40°F, it is time to begin the process.
Cold temperatures, UV exposure, and weight from snow accumulation can all damage an RV roof and exterior over winter. Before storage:
A standard lead-acid battery will discharge and potentially freeze if left unattended in cold storage. There are two main approaches:
Lithium batteries handle cold better than lead-acid but still benefit from being stored at a partial charge in mild temperatures when possible.
An RV sitting still for months is an attractive shelter for mice, squirrels, and insects. Gaps around plumbing, wiring, and vents are common entry points.
Practical deterrents include:
Inspect your rig thoroughly in early spring before your first trip. Mouse damage to wiring and insulation is one of the most common and frustrating spring discoveries for Midwest campers.
If you add antifreeze without bypassing the water heater first, antifreeze will flow into the water heater tank, which typically holds six to ten gallons. This wastes a significant amount of antifreeze and does not protect the water heater any better than simply draining it. Install a bypass kit to isolate the water heater from the antifreeze circuit.
Yes. The antifreeze-only method does not require compressed air. Use a hand pump or a water pump converter kit to draw antifreeze from a container directly through your RV’s water pump and into the lines. Open each faucet one at a time until pink antifreeze appears, then close it and move to the next.
Most RVs have low-point drains on both the hot and cold water lines, typically located underneath the coach. These are the lowest points in the plumbing system where water naturally collects. Leaving them closed traps water that compressed air may not fully evacuate. Open and drain both low-point drains before blowing out the lines or adding antifreeze.
Blain’s Farm & Fleet stocks a broad selection of RV winterization supplies, including RV-safe antifreeze, blow-out plugs, battery maintainers, tire covers, sealants, and moisture control products. Store staff are familiar with the practical needs of Midwest campers and can help customers identify the right antifreeze for their system, choose the correct compressor fittings, or find pest deterrents that hold up through a long storage season.
Beyond supplies, Blain’s carries the tools and accessories that make the overall process easier, from portable air compressors suitable for the blow-out method to storage covers sized for everything from pop-up campers to full-size fifth wheels. For customers who also maintain hobby farm equipment or vehicles over winter, the store offers a practical one-stop option for seasonal storage needs across categories.
Most travel trailers and small motorhomes require two to three gallons of RV antifreeze. Larger Class A or Class C motorhomes with more complex plumbing may need four gallons or more. It is better to have an extra gallon on hand than to run short mid-process.
No. Automotive antifreeze contains ethylene glycol, which is toxic and not safe for use in RV water systems. Always use propylene glycol-based antifreeze labeled specifically for RV or marine use.
If the storage unit maintains temperatures consistently above 32°F throughout winter, freeze damage is unlikely. However, draining and bypassing the water system is still a good practice, as storage unit temperatures can fluctuate. Winterizing takes a small amount of time and provides peace of mind regardless of where the RV is stored.
Flush all water lines thoroughly with fresh water to remove any remaining antifreeze. Reconnect the water heater, check all connections for leaks, sanitize the fresh water tank with a diluted bleach solution, and run water through each faucet until it runs clear. Replace any filters that were removed for winter.
No. Once RV antifreeze has been added to the plumbing system, the RV should not be used for camping or water use until it has been fully de-winterized and flushed. Antifreeze in the lines means no running water for cooking, drinking, or sanitation.
Water in RV plumbing begins to freeze at 32°F. However, the real risk comes when temperatures stay below freezing for an extended period, as insulation in most RVs is not sufficient to protect pipes during prolonged cold snaps. Winterize before consistent nighttime lows reach the mid-30s.
Most campers can complete a thorough winterization in two to four hours. Those doing it for the first time may take longer. Having all supplies gathered ahead of time, including antifreeze, compressed air equipment, and bypass fittings, makes the process more efficient.
Winterizing a camper or RV is one of the highest-value maintenance tasks a camper owner can do. A few hours of preparation in fall prevents weeks of repair work in spring and protects an investment that many families rely on for years of use. The process is straightforward, the materials are affordable, and the benefits are clear. Start before the first freeze, work through each system methodically, and store the rig with the same care you would give any piece of equipment that needs to perform reliably season after season. When you are ready to stock up on supplies or have questions about your specific setup, Blain’s Farm & Fleet is a practical place to start.