You wake up to eight inches of fresh snow, pull the cord, and nothing happens. Before you reach for a shovel, know that when a snowblower won’t start, the cause is usually simple and easy to fix yourself.
This guide from Blain’s Farm & Fleet walks you through the most common causes, the right way to start your machine, and what to check, step by step. The fixes apply to most gas snow blowers, including Craftsman, Toro, and Ariens models.
A snowblower usually won’t start because of a fuel problem, such as stale gas or varnish clogging the carburetor. Other common causes include a closed fuel valve or missing safety key, incorrect choke or primer settings, a flooded engine, a fouled spark plug, a dirty air or fuel filter, or a dead battery on electric-start models.
Here’s what to look for with the most common culprits:
Before you troubleshoot, make sure you’re following the right starting routine. It varies a little by model, so check your owner’s manual, but most gas snow blowers start like this:
Following this routine every time also prevents one of the most common starting problems: a flooded engine from too much choking or priming.
Work through these checks in order, from quickest to most involved. Before handling the spark plug, filters, or carburetor, let the engine cool, and disconnect the spark plug wire.
Double-check that there’s fresh, clean gasoline in the fuel tank. Fuel problems are a common reason why your snow blower may not start.
Gas can start breaking down within about a month, especially without fuel stabilizer. Ethanol in most gas also absorbs moisture over time. If the gas has been sitting since last season, drain the tank and refill it with fresh gasoline. Ethanol-free gas is a good choice for small engines, but most manuals allow regular gas with up to 10% ethanol.
While you’re there, check these parts:
Gas cap vent: On many snow blowers, the gas cap vents the tank. If the vent is clogged, fuel can’t flow freely. Clean or replace the cap.
Fuel filter and fuel line: Older gas can form gummy deposits in your fuel filter and fuel line, and lines can crack with age. Replace them if needed.
Make sure the fuel shutoff valve is in the “on” position. This sounds silly, but it’s easy to forget if you haven’t used your snow blower in a few months.
Some snow blowers also have a safety key and a toggle switch. Make sure the key is fully inserted and the switch is set to “run.” If either is off, the engine won’t start, and repeated attempts can flood it.
Compare your choke, primer, and throttle settings with the starting routine above. Too much choke or priming is the most common way to flood an engine. A strong smell of gas or a wet spark plug are telltale signs.
To fix a flooded snowblower engine:
If it still won’t start, remove the spark plug and dry it, as described in Step 4.
Remove the spark plug, and look for these common issues:
Cracks or heavy buildup: A cracked or carbon-fouled plug can’t be repaired. Replace it with a new spark plug.
Fuel on the spark plug: This usually means the engine is flooded. Wipe the plug dry before reinstalling it.
Incorrect gap: The gap between the two electrodes must match the spec in your manual. Check it with a feeler gauge, which should slide through with slight drag. Read our step-by-step guide on how to gap spark plugs.
A clogged or fuel-soaked air filter restricts the airflow your engine needs to start. Remove it and inspect it. Replace it if it’s dirty, damaged, or wet with fuel.
If fresh fuel and a good spark plug don’t solve the problem, old gas may have left varnish inside the carburetor. To test it, spray a short burst of carburetor cleaner into the air intake, and try to start the engine. If it fires briefly and then dies, fuel isn’t reaching the engine.
To clean a snowblower carburetor:
Heavy buildup may require a full rebuild. If you’re not comfortable taking the carburetor apart, a small engine technician can clean it for you.
Some snow blowers have a low-oil sensor that stops the engine from starting when the oil is low. Check the dipstick and top it off with the cold-weather oil your manual recommends.
If you’ve ruled everything else out, the starter may be the problem.
Not sure where to start? Match what your snow blower is doing to the likely cause, then jump to the step that fixes it.
| Symptom | Likely Cause | Where to Look |
| Won’t start at all | Stale fuel, closed fuel valve, or missing safety key | Steps 1 and 2 |
| Smells like gas but won’t start | Flooded engine | Step 3 |
| Starts, then dies right away | Clogged carburetor, fuel filter, or gas cap vent | Steps 1 and 6 |
| Only runs with the choke on | Partially clogged carburetor | Step 6 |
| Runs rough or surges | Old fuel, dirty air filter, or varnish in the carburetor | Steps 1, 5, and 6 |
| Hard to start in very cold weather | Choke or primer settings, or the wrong oil for cold temperatures | Steps 3 and 7 |
| Pull cord is loose or won’t retract | Broken recoil starter | Step 8 |
| Electric start clicks or does nothing | No power at the outlet, or a worn starter | Step 8 |
Most starting problems begin with how your snow blower spends the off-season. A few simple habits keep it ready for the first storm:
For step-by-step instructions, see our guide on how to store your snow blower for the summer.
Most starting problems take just a few minutes to fix, and a little routine care keeps them from coming back.
Need a hand with repairs? If you bought your snow blower at Blain’s, the factory-trained technicians at our Small Engine Service Center can diagnose and fix it. Find your nearest Blain’s Farm & Fleet to book an appointment.
Stale gas is the usual culprit. Fuel left in the tank over the summer breaks down and can leave varnish in the carburetor (see Steps 1 and 6). Months in storage can also invite mice, so check for nests and chewed wires before your first start of the season.
Either approach works, as long as you don’t leave untreated gas sitting all summer. Running the engine dry keeps fuel out of the carburetor, where varnish forms. Storing it with a full tank of stabilized fuel limits the condensation that can build up in an empty tank. Your owner’s manual will say which method your manufacturer recommends.
Use it sparingly, if at all. Most starter fluid is ether-based, which can strip lubricating oil from engine parts and is especially hard on 2-cycle engines. Carburetor cleaner is a safer way to test for a fuel problem, and your manual will say whether starter fluid is allowed.
For more snow blower tips and guides, check out our other Outdoor Equipment & Tools articles.
