Do you have a big garage or small garage? Do you want a lot of heat or a little? The choice is yours with any of the Fahrenheat Ceiling Mount Automatic Electrical Garage Heaters. Available in a variety of sizes, you can get the perfect unit for your garage, shop or out building work area. With the horizontal heat flow and the ability to adjust the air flow to your liking, you’ll get evenly distributed heat. And if you are a little short on space, don’t worry. This heater mounts to your ceiling saving you room. A Fahrenheat Ceiling Mount Automatic Electrical Garage Heater is just what you need to heat your garage.
Fan throws air 16' in calm conditions
Automatic fan delay until heating element warms up
When heater turns off, the fan continues until heating element cools off
Field convertible wattage
Long life, steel plate finned element
Permanently lubricated fan motor
Heater may be ceiling or wall mounted to allow for horizontal or downflow application
Built - in, manual adjustable thermostat with temp range from 45 degrees to 135 degrees F
Horizontal heat flow and adjustable down flow positions to distribute heat evenly
Auxiliary, supplementary or primary heat source in factories, stores, garages, basements, warehouses, public buildings, service stations, stockrooms, offices, workshops, toll booths, closing offices, large or exposed areas or additions.
Heater comes equipped with ceiling mounting bracket for horizontal or vertical flow mounting or any position in between.
Built-in single pole thermostat adjusts from 45 to 135F.
Automatic control delays fan action until heating element is warm. When thermostat is satisfied, fan continues to operate until heating element is cool. By preventing circulation of cold air and expelling excess heat, comfort level is raised and component life is extended.
A high level cutout automatically shuts off current in event of overheating and reactivates the heater when temperature returns to normal.
Adjustable Watt settings from 1874 watts to 5000 watts
Typical heating range is from 80 sq. ft. to 1000 sq. ft.
Width:14" Length:12-3/8" Voltage:240V Type: Electric Heating Area: 500 sq. ft. Watts: 5,000W Height: 11-1/4"" Width: 14" Length: 12-3/8"
Q & A
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Response times may vary. For an immediate answer, contact your local store or call 800-210-2370.
I have a small basement garage and decided to purchase it based on other user comments that I've read, seems like the right one for me. Another reason being that "Blain's" offers the best price including shipping costs.
I'm looking to heat my insulated garage (25x35) to keep it above freezing during a Wisconsin winter with this electric heater kept on the low setting all winter long. Does anyone have experience of how much that would increase my electric bill?
Best Answer:I have the 7500W and a 20X26 garage with a 9 foot ceiling and only have it turned up less than 1/4 max. It is about 65 in there and it feels like 80. It's 10 degrees out with a minus 9 wind chill. My electric bill went up less than $10 a month......if that.
I use it to keep my shop warm enough to work in and it is 24x35 16' tall...it raised my electric bill about $35 a month and will keep the uninsulated shop warm enough to work in even in northern Colorado in the winter.
I heat an insulated 24 x 20 garage/workshop in St Louis and see very little increase, maybe $10.00. However I am not opening and closing garage and pulling in a cold car. Low setting holds my temp in the low 50's.
Best Answer:If the ceiling is closed off and insulated and the walls are insulated too then it will be ok. My garage has has insulated walls but the ceiling is open to the eaves and it's 24'x24' so it struggles to warm the entire room.
My garage is about the same size, 20x24. So far the coldest temps we had in NJ this year has been 40ish. On the LOW thermostat setting, it took the entire garage up to 64 in about 20 minutes. The thermostat kicked back in every 15 minutes or so and ran for a couple of minutes. In my opinion it works great. I hardwired an on/off switch to the back so it can ben disabled and added a red indicator light to the front so I can easily know if it has power. There are a couple of hash marks on the thermostat below LOW. I'm hoping I can set it to maintain 45 or 50 over the winter to prevent paint cans from freezing. In summary, a very good unit probably capable of handling a room twice the size. I hope this info is helpful. Thanks
I have mine in a 16x12 insulated workshop with cathedral ceiling and it heats it pretty well. If I crank it up it would certainly get my building hot, but I have simply kept it on the "Low" setting so it takes the bite out of the air and its been perfect.
I chose electric heat because I only need to heat the space when I'm actually out there on weekends. Otherwise, I keep the building cold soI didn't want to deal with frozen water pipes or hooking up gas lines. Easy on and easy off was the key decision for me on this unit.
I would have to guess about the answer since my space is only a well insulated 6 x 16 space but my guess would be yes. I say yes because I only have it set 2 notches past LO and it keeps my space at 70 even when it is 25 outside. I would be confident it can keep your space around 70 even down into the 20's or possibly lower.
I think so, I have a 25 x 35 with 10 ft celing and it puts out enough heat to make it comfortable on a cold day (about zero out) there is probably a cold spot on the far end of the garage but I point it where I work and keep the insulated doors closed. I only use mine when I'm working out there but it's been great so far.
My garage is 20 X 30 and not very well insulated but the heater works great. Typically I set the thermostat on "low" and am able to work comfortably in my shop. Our home is located in the Seattle area so the outside temperatures are seldom below freezing.
yes, this does do a good job of heating that area. of course I have it above and pointed right at my work area so I get more than enough heat. I usually leave it in a moderate to low heat setting. I live at 9000 feet in Colorado so it gets cold outside.
Steve, My workshop is 18'x20", 100 years old, uninsulated and my heater does a very good job keeping the work area very comfortable even when the temps drop a little below the zero mark. You should have no problem with this heater.
I have a 20x22 well insulated garage with 10' hogh ceilings.The 5000w unit is more than adequate. I am very pleased with it so much so I recommended it to my brother inlaw. He also is going to purchase the same unit.
My garage is 20 X 25 and I have the 5000 watt heater. After initial warm-up I have to turn my heater down to the low setting. The garage stays warm at that point. Best heater I have found for the money. You'll be pleased!
110, this is a good unit, not much to go wrong with these heaters, I've owned them for 20 years, the thermostats will die after 15 years. They heat both of my insulated garages very nicely. I will say that I had a electrician hook it up for me only because I don't know jack about electricity. Buy with confidence.
I have a 20x24 insulated garage I live in north east mn temps get to 40 below every year without the wind chill will this heater do the job to keep my garage from freezing?
A shopper on Dec 29, 2014
Best Answer:I live in missouri. We get zero to -10 at times without wind chill. I have a 20X26 garage. Insulated, with insulated garage door that I did. It was an uninsulated garage when installed. This heater wills do the job of keeping your garage from freezing in those temps, but I'm certain the unit will run non stop. The past few nights it has been in the teens without wind chill and I can easily hear the garage to 75 if needed. I am considering installing a ceiling fan for better circulation of the warm air. The thermostat on this unit did burn up on me. The unit is very good, but the t-stat is not. I bypassed it and installed a wall mounted stat. it works much better since I can reach it easier. I hope this helps to answer your question.
It will keep it from freezing but the heater will run a lot. I have mine in a 24 x 36 insulated garage and when it gets to 10 above or lower I t will run steady trying to maintain the heat. I do not keep my garage heated all the time so that could be a factor. If you were going to keep the heat a constant 40-50 degrees it would most likely run less. I have my heater wired to a honneywell relay that operates the heater off a wifi wall mounted thermostat. This way I can turn my heat on with my phone when I leave work and the garage is comfortable when I get home.
Hello! I bought the FUH5 heater for my son's 20' x 20' insulated garage. We live in Missouri and recently experienced outside temperatures of 1 degree with -17 wind chill. Under normal conditions, the heater kept things from freezing, and when operated continuously for an hour or so, warmed the garage to 60 F. The heater is rated for 400 square feet and 17,500 BTU's. I hope this helps.
I live in Colorado and the temps in the winter are not extreme but we do have cold snaps that last for several days and are below zero. I insulated and sheet rocked my my garage before installing this heater. I have been very pleased. I rarely turn this heater above the low setting and it never gets below 50 degrees in the coldest weather. This was a great investment!
I don't know for sure at 40 below. I'm in central Ohio and my garage is about 20 x 28 with 6 x 20 of that a back room with a doorway in the center. I run the heater during the winter when I want to work in the garage and it will warm up to probably high fifty to low sixty degrees. My garage is not insulated, so if you have decent insulation, it may do the trick. Good luck.
I have a 20 X 24 UNinsulated garage in central North Carolina where we have seen temps in the low teens since installing this heater. I use it on days I want to work out there to boost the temp. from 45-50 to 65 .I have no experience with temperatures in the -40 range, coldest it's ever gotten in this part of the country is -6.
I live in NH and have about the same size garage that's fully insulated I don't think it would be an issue for this heater at -10 intermittent. A consistent -40 might would be a stretch, that's a large heat rise from -40 to 32, insulation and air tightness is a big factor.
I used mine during the propane shortage last winter. We got to 20 below and I was using it to heat a 640 sq. ft. portion of my house that was insulated to 1970 standards. Nice thing, if it does not heat to the temperature you would like to have you could add a second unit.
Best Answer:If you do have 220 or 240 between line 1 and line 2 at the unit, then it appears thr problem is at the unit, coulld be the thermostat ?
If it has a contactor, is it pulled in? If not then there is a control problem. If you are skilled and confident you could simply push the contactor in and it should operate or have an electrician do it. Most of the time you can bypass the thermostat and close the contactor that way.
Turn off the power. Use voltmeter to check for sure and then remove the wire from one side of the heating element. Check for resistance with ohmmeter across the element. No resistance, get a new heater. Could be just the thermostat. Perform same test across the thermostat that you did on the element with one lead disconnected using an ohmmeter, Should be open in off position and should make contact as you turn thermostat up.
Best Answer:Honestly I have no clue but it works great. We put it in a 12 X 16 wood shed and it heats it quite nicely. Has a 16 foot throw on it so i bet it will heat a larger area just might run longer. Hope this helps.
Best Answer:Does this heater have a plug in? No. You need to supply and install the hardware that connects it to whatever electrical source you plan to use. The maximum heat output is achieved using a 220V 30-amp circuit (for the FUH54C model). For this you need at least 10AWG wire between the heater and the the source's 2-pole circuit breaker. At the junction box for the heater you can either run a flexible conduit (metal clad is recommended) to carry the wiring to the heater's internal terminal block, or, you can equip the junction box with a 30-amp receptacle (like a dryer outlet) and attach a matching dryer line cord to the terminal block. That will allow you to plug in the heater to the junction box receptacle. The latter option is more expensive and probably unnecessary if you aren't planning to unplug and move the heater after it's installed. Note: the heater can be tilted to direct its output, so allow enough slack in the flexible conduit to do that when you install it.
Not sure I totally understand the question but I'll give it a go. The heater is designed to be hard wired directly back to the distribution panel with the appropriate sized 2 pole (220) breaker. However, if there's a properly installed and sized 2 pole receptacle nearby I see no problem using a properly sized pigtail (like you would use on an electric stove or dryer) to connect the heater. As always local codes will prevail and should be checked prior to installation.
I had an electrician run a seperate 220 line in my garage for the heater. As I recall,it is not a 'plug in' model and it runs on 220 and not 110....it's really a great heater and I work in my garage all winter tinkering with cars and bicycles. Not a significant power cost either.
Best Answer:The manual states that if you are mounting from horizontal to 45 degrees, you need to maintain 13 inch separation from walls. I suppose you could mount a bracket on the wall and hang the heater from that. Hanging the heater from the ceiling itself is the simplest way to do it unless you just can't do that for some reason. I mounted a foot long 2 x 4 onto the ceiling and then hung the heater off of that. Also , the controls access panel is on the bottom so you can't set it on anything.
Thank you Roger. I live in New Jersey and recently elevated my home because of water damage caused by Hurricane Sandy. I am looking for an electric heater for my crawlspace which is 6' in height, so that no pipes would freeze over the winter. The guide book recommends minimum of 6' from floor. If I install this unit, it would hang down to 5' above the concrete floor, but would be placed in a spot where no one could come into contact with the unit. Do you think placing the unit at this height would cause any issues? Thank you again for taking the time to reply. I truly appreciate it!
Hi Alfred. Kind of baffles me that there is no difference in minimums whether aimed horizontally or vertically. Better call manufacturer for their blessing and question them about what I just brought up. If you don't and something bad happens, it's on you. Sorry and Good Luck.
I wouldn't suggest it, unless you can ensure air flow behind the unit. The fan on this unit is not very powerful unless you can hook it up to 220v. I only had 110v as an option, and had to add a small ceiling mounted fan for it to be able to warm more than a 20sq. ft. area below the heater.
There are nipples at various positions on the sides of the heater for the bracket to hold it in different positions. If you used the two horizontal ones, you could mount the bracket to the wall at a right angle to the heater, as long as you have sound anchoring in the wall.
No... the bracket is not designed to be a wall mount nor the type of bracket is strong enough. But I don't see why you couldn't get a wall mount platform to set on. Something like the old ones being used to sit a tv on.
I'm not 100% sure but in looking at mine, I think it is likely that you can hang it from a wall. By the way it is a great heater much better than the gas heater that I was using which was twice the size and noisey
Best Answer:During the month of December in Kansas temps ranged anywhere between 20's-40's for the high and sometimes single digits overnight. My utility bill was $270 and it is normally $130-150 during the winter months. The heater is installed in a 24x32 building with 10ft side walls. I only have the bubble wrap type insulation and no ceiling. During that month I maintained a inside temp of 50 degrees Fahrenheit on the low setting so I was very pleased with the performance of the unit and the utility cost was not bad considering what I was making it do. This is my first winter that I have had it and have since been keeping it off unless I know I will be in the shop so the wife stays happier.
It is hard to say for a few reasons. I am on a monthly budget from my power authority so I pay the same amount each month, we had a change of power authority last year. I can say it works great. We keep 2 cars in the garage with a little storage space and work bench. I only need it for three months of the year and it warms it up terrifically and I never have to put it on high. So I'm sure it uses more energy but it's so nice to get in a warm vehicle when it's cold out and work in garage that's warm. If I were to guess maybe $20-$30 more a month but we pay high rates and it was still worth it. I would highly recommend this product. Hope that helps!!
That's a very tough question to answer because of all the variables. The simple answer is multiply the number of hours you are going to run the heater times the 5000 watts to get what Kw hours and multiply that times what you pay for a Kw hour.
This is my second unit, one is in a two car garage that is very well insulated, and the other is in a new construction basement / house also well insulated but with temporary front door that leaks like a sieve. I bought the second unit because I was so please with the quality of the first.
It depends on what you are paying per kilowatt hour for your electricity. This heater uses a maximum of 5000 watts. So, for example, if you are charged $.10 per kilowatt hour (check your electric bill), then this heater would cost you $.50 to run for one hour if it ran continuously during that time (1000 watts x 5 = 5 kilowatts x $.10).
I assume you mean "cost" not "coast" as above. I do not track my electric usage that closely and, I use the heater intermittently in the garage. The primary concern for me is occasional heat not cost. I would not use electric as a regular day-to-day heat source in Milwaukee, far too expensive compared to natural gas.
It does use quite a bit of electricity, so you will see an increase in your electric bill. I keep my garage around 55 degrees in the winter months. A gas heater may be cheaper to run, but I like this because I don't have to worry about carbon monoxide.
40x35 garage 12ft ceiling fully insulated. It maintains 45 deg on the lowest setting, with outside temps 0 +or- 10 deg. Costing $80.00 a month. Bumping it up to 65 deg to work in there. Only goes up $10.00 I hope this helps
Best Answer:I wired mine using a 220v welder power cord. Then I used a heavy duty welding extension cord in order to adequately reach my 220v outlet. It works well and the wiring is plenty heavy enough to carry the load.
Best Answer:This heater is electric, so no venting is needed. There is a fan in the back of the unit that draws air and blows it across the heated coils to push heated air out the front of the unit. We installed two in a 20X 30 insulated shop. They do the job and keep the place warm in the winter when heat is needed.
Best Answer:The fire risk for this heater are the same as any electric heater or appliance. Improper installation including undersized wire for the load or improper placement of the heater near combustibles can increase the risk of fire. Care should be taken when starting the heater for the first time each season to make sure an excessive amount of dust hasn't accumulated on the coils.
I don't know about fire risk but I have two of these heaters in my garage and I am very happy with them. Have a 1600 sq.ft. divided into two bays, one bay is 16 x 40 and the other is 24 by 40 with one on each side. planning on buying another one for the larger side for when it's really cold. hope this helps.
as long as its properly installed per manufacturers specifications-you should be fine- keep combustibles a fair distance away from the unit use proper breaker sizing and line wire size- and pay attention once installed to where it should be set on the temp setting.
I Have a 36 x 36 garage what would be the best heater for this space?
A shopper on Nov 1, 2014
Best Answer:I live on the Cumberland Plateau in middle TN where it was 17 degrees last night so it gets fairly cold sometimes and I bought this same heater 2 years ago for a 6x16 area. It works great and my electric bill only went up ~$10/mo. So for your large garage I think this heater would run most, if not all, of the time especially if you live any further north of me. So your electric bill might go up another $100/mo but that would depend on how warm you want your garage and how often you would heat it of course.
I put two of these in a garage 34 X 52 just over 1700 sq ft -- one facing one way and one the other Live in northwest Iowa -- keeps building at 50 degrees, I got it set one dot below the lo setting mark reason I went with this type of heater is engines with gas Will add $50 plus to electric bill depending on setting
Depending on how cold it gets and how well your space is insulated, even with good insulation if it gets down to zero you would probably need two of those to keep up.I have a 25 by 35 and it struggles to keep warm as it approaches zero, and I have good insulation
Best Answer:I bought mine in December of 2013 and it came set up to be hard-wired with instructions on how to do so. I'm not 100% sure how it comes now but I'm going to guess it is still the same - hard-wired.
I'm considering getting this 5000W electric heater to heat my new garage 25' x 35'. The walls and ceiling will be insulated. I want to be able to always keep the temp above freezing in the garage during a Wisconsin winter by keeping it set on the lowest setting. Does anyone have experience with using this heater in that way and how much it increases your electric bill?
A shopper on Dec 10, 2013
Best Answer:Best way to run it is to install an external thermostat which will manage the operation of the heater better than the built in one which is pretty crude. You can't guest the cost of increased heating because every jurisdiction charges a different rate. I imagine that in Wisconsin in the middle of winter it would cost you at least $50/month at say 50d, but it's simply a guest. To calculate the therms you would use you have to run an energy audit that would calculate the cost based upon the cubic feet of the garage, R factor of the insulation and the desired temperature times the kilowatt hour rate that you're paying.
I bought one of these to do exactly as you described. I'm in the Mountains of Pennsylvania and use this to keep a 25x30 pole building (insulated with 2" foam board and sheet rocked)above freezing. I have it set to maintain 45*. It works just fine. When I'm going to work out there I use a kerosene heater to bring it up to 65-70* then use the electric to maintain it. This little heater would take a LONG time to raise temperature, but it does a good job of maintaining it. It added about $60 per month to my electric bill.
This will easily heat your garage. You may want to install a remote thermostat but it isn't necessary. As far as cost-look at your total dollar amount of your bill and divide it by your KWH used. This will probably be around .12 per KWH. For example if your bill is $180 and you used 1500 KWH you paid .12 total per KWH. This is a 5000 watt heater. If you ran that for one hour it is 5 KWH or .60 for each hour.
The heater work nice, the 5000w probably would not be big enough for a garage that big. You could have two, one on opposite ends of the garage. Even the 7500 w alone may not be big enough. A new garage should be insulated well, but that is a big area for one little heater. They seem to operate fairly cheap, I cannot tell you the actual cost
I have the heater in my 24x24 uninsulated garage and it works great. I keep the temp at 65. It doesn't run all that much but I live in Indiana where the temps are not as cold as where you are but I think the heater will do fine for you.
Best Answer:Apologies I don't know the actual amps as I installed it over a year ago. But I can tell you that you should be able to download the owners/installation manual to find out the required circuit for the unit on Blaine or manufacturers website. I can tell you I had no issues installing the power supply directly from the main breaker box and it has worked flawlessly since Jan 2014 here in Indiana.
Best Answer:You can go to the Manufacturers web site and they will show you the amperage/BTU output options that you can wire the unit for. You can see this at the marleymep web site I run this in New England in a small, insulated 2 car Garage wired for 220V on a 20amp breaker and it does a good job.
For 30 amp breaker which jumpers stay in internal wiring?
A shopper on Feb 21, 2015
Best Answer:I have the FUH-54B Heater. Leave all of the jumper wires on the C-D terminal. There will be nothing on the A-B Terminal. This will give you 5000 watts and unit will pull just under 21 amps. Use at least 10 gauge wiring and a 30 amp two pole, two hundred forty volt breaker. Good Luck.
My garage was wired for an electric heater already but the old heater was removed before I moved in so I could not learn from removing the old item like I normally do. On the whip are 1 white that is neutral and two Blacks hot and one RED hot all tested with my wiggy. Is it as simple as using two hots to make 220 and the one white neutral to power this up to 220? I know I will have to upgrade the breaker from 20 to 30 amp. Thanks for any help you may offer !
Best Answer:1. You first need to confirm the existing wire is 10 gauge; I say this because a circuit protected by a 20 amp breaker is usually made of 12 gauge wire, and it is a fire hazard and NEC violation to install a 30 amp breaker to protect a circuit wired with 12 gauge wire. 2. The description of the whip conductors is perplexing too; this 240 volt heater should be attached to a whip that contains a black (hot conductor 1), a red (hot conductor 2), a white ('neutral'), and either a bare ground or green ground wire. There shouldn't be two black wires as well as a red wire (in addition to a white and green/bare wire). 3. Considering the nature of your question and description of the existing wiring, I would hire an electrician so the heater is installed correctly and safely.
Best Answer:I would try Fahrenheat directly, if they can't help I'd call Grainger. They are good for sourcing electrical parts like this. Have yours out and ready to talk to them about. A simple cell phone picture helps a lot when describing the product.
Best Answer:I did have a thermostat with on/off switch added on to the wall below the unit and it works great. My work man installed it and he just purchased whatever was available at the local ACE hardware store, nothing fancy. I use 2 units in my restaurant and I could not be more satisfied. I would highly recommend the product.
Yes you can. I used a wall thermostat like you would use for baseboard electric and wired it in. You just have to wire the external thermostat in in place of the onboard one. It can be done. Just make sure the wall thermostat is rated for it.